Aging Skin & Rejuvenation: Insights from Dr. Jennifer Goldwasser
In a recent Medicine 3.0 episode, Dr. Catherine Isaac welcomed back dermatologist Dr. Jennifer Goldwasser to discuss aging skin and rejuvenation strategies. This informative conversation covered everything from basic skin care to advanced treatments, offering valuable insights for anyone looking to maintain healthy skin as they age.
Understanding Skin Changes with Age
Dr. Goldwasser explains that as we age, our skin undergoes numerous changes:
- Mottled, non-uniform coloration
- Increased laxity
- Development of wrinkles
- Growth of various skin spots
Sun exposure is the primary culprit behind these changes. Dr. Goldwasser suggests comparing protected skin (like the underside of your arm) with frequently exposed areas to see the dramatic difference sun damage causes. Another telling sign of sun damage in elderly individuals is "senile purpura" - red-purple blotches that appear on sun-exposed skin due to deteriorated connective tissue.
The Subtraction-First Approach
Rather than immediately adding products, Dr. Goldwasser advocates for a "subtraction-first" approach to skin care:
- Eliminate harmful habits:
- Tobacco use (smoking, vaping)
- Excessive alcohol consumption
- Recreational drugs
- Sun exposure
- Ultra-processed and animal-based foods
- Add beneficial practices:
- Plant-based diet rich in phytonutrients and antioxidants
- Simple, targeted skin care routine
Essential Skin Care Elements
1. Gentle Cleansing
Dr. Goldwasser recommends gentle cleansers like Dove sensitive skin products or La Roche Posay's hydrating cleanser. She warns against products with strong fragrances, dyes, or exfoliating particles, especially for aging skin which becomes thinner and more sensitive.
2. Proper Moisturizing
- Choose the right vehicle: Creams (oil-based) are better for aging skin than lotions (water-based)
- Look for jar packaging rather than pump tops for richer products
- Recommendations: Vanicream, La Roche-Posay Lipicar, CeraVe or Cetaphil in jars
- For extremely dry areas, Dr. Goldwasser surprisingly recommends Crisco shortening as an effective, non-irritating option
3. Sun Protection
Sun protection remains crucial even as we age, as UV damage continues to accumulate.
Managing Common Skin Conditions
Seborrheic Dermatitis
Often mistaken for dry skin, seborrheic dermatitis (dandruff) requires:
- Regular, vigorous cleansing
- Products containing pyrithione zinc (like Head & Shoulders)
- For facial involvement: washing twice daily, once with anti-dandruff shampoo and once with facial cleanser
Dr. Goldwasser notes that seborrheic dermatitis is common in babies and aging adults, particularly those with neurological conditions like Parkinson's disease or those experiencing immunosuppression.
Anti-Aging Treatments
Over-the-Counter Options
- Retinols: Derived from vitamin A, these are the most potent OTC anti-aging ingredients
- Benefits: Reduce fine lines, improve skin texture
- Limitations: Can be irritating and sun-sensitizing
- Vitamin C:
- Benefits: Stimulates collagen production, acts as an antioxidant
- Limitations: Unstable in formulations, effective products are costly
- Other Options:
- Peptides
- Hyaluronic acid for moisture
- Niacinamide for inflammation
Prescription Treatments
Tretinoin (prescription retinoid):
- Apply a pea-sized amount at night
- Wait at least 20 minutes after washing
- Avoid sensitive areas (upper eyelids, lips)
- May need to start gradually (every other day) or seasonally
- Most effective for fine lines, less so for deep wrinkles or skin laxity
Professional Procedures
- Botox:
- Temporarily paralyzes muscles to reduce expression lines
- Generally safe with effects lasting 3-4 months
- Best for forehead lines and "11 lines" between brows
- Fillers:
- Typically hyaluronic acid-based (Restylane, Juvederm)
- Best for deeper lines around the mouth
- Duration varies based on product
- Lasers and Energy Devices:
- Can address pigmentation, visible vessels, and redness
- Newer technologies like radiofrequency microneedling can stimulate collagen and tighten skin
- Surgical Options:
- Most effective for significant laxity
- Eyelid surgery (blepharoplasty) offers good value and high satisfaction
Emerging Treatments
While Dr. Goldwasser finds radiofrequency microneedling promising, she cautions against jumping on trends without sufficient evidence:
- Red light therapy: Limited scientific support
- Topical estrogen: Insufficient safety and efficacy data
Key Takeaways
- Protect skin from sun damage at every age
- Simplify your routine - less is often more
- Choose products appropriate for your skin's changing needs
- Adjust skin care seasonally and as you age
- Consider the risk-benefit ratio before trying trendy treatments
The podcast emphasizes that good skin care requires adapting to our body's changing needs with age, replacing dated routines, and focusing on evidence-based approaches rather than marketing claims.
Timestamps:
00:00 - Introduction
02:39 - Effects of sun exposure on skin aging
05:39 - The subtraction approach to skincare
09:01 - Gentle cleansers and proper product selection
11:57 - Understanding seborrheic dermatitis
16:57 - Menopause and skin changes
23:36 - Types of moisturizers and proper application
32:21 - Effective skincare ingredients
37:14 - Anti-aging ingredients: retinols and vitamin C
44:21 - How to properly apply tretinoin
53:13 - Benefits of tretinoin for aging skin
57:44 - Botox, fillers and other cosmetic procedures
1:04:36 - Innovative treatments in dermatology1:12:27 - Conclusion and preview of future episodes